This acrylic paint buying guide will keep you from making costly mistakes

This acrylic paint buying guide will keep you from making costly mistakes

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If you’ve ever been to acrylic paint, you’re already aware of the mind-boggling variety of materials available.

Even if you stick to a single medium, such as acrylic paint, you’re confronted with hundreds of different colors, dozens of brushes, a diversity of surfaces, and an abundance of “necessary” accessories.

It’s enough to dissuade the novice before they begin, and it’s unsurprising that the more experienced artist often drowns in a sea of barely-opened paint containers.

If you’re a beginner, you should begin with a few resources.

Additionally, if you have been painting for some time but are dissatisfied with the results, you should return to a very restricted palette of materials.


Because as resources are accumulated, your skillset grows more spread. Alternatively. By learning a few important pieces of equipment, you’ll be able to create more accomplished-looking work than you would by attempting to use a vast number.

You’ll have more ‘quick victories,’ which will boost your confidence and drive you to persevere with more zeal.

Additionally, with a few intelligent decisions, you may be able to paint almost any topic or style you like.

This guide demonstrates how to do such an assessment (at least in my experience). It will save you time by avoiding hours of deliberation about what you need against what you do not. It will save you money by keeping you from acquiring equipment that will be inactive for an extended period of time.

This is not a complete list of acrylic paint supplies. This is not essential if you want to create superb acrylic paint. It is easy and short, enabling you to spend more time painting and less time reading!

This article will discuss paints. After all, this is the very minimum need for getting started.

Color Palette

Choosing an acrylic paint color is subjective and is contingent upon the color’s availability at the time of purchase, as well as what you may already have in your art box.

Above all, it is subjective, since everyone’s sense of color is distinct.

While the initial possibilities for each color below may be considered ‘standards’ within the ranges of the majority of major paint manufacturers, keep in mind that the same-named color might often vary somewhat – potentially slightly stronger or darker – across brands.
This should not be an issue unless you’re attempting to match an existing hue in your image completely.

In any case, I recommend starting with no more than light shades. A decent beginning kit will include both ‘warm’ and ‘cold’ main strains. Click here to read about What to Consider When Buying Acrylic Paint and other useful painting tips.

Nota bene, no green or black tones are present. When brown and blue are joined, fantastic darks result, and when yellow and blue are combined, all the greens imaginable result – and more!

The following are examples of warm colors:

  • Pyrrol Scarlet, Vermillion, Cadmium Red, or Cadmium Red
  • Natural Sienna or Yellow Ochre
  • Colors That Are Cool:
  • Green Shade of Pthalo Blue, Prussian Blue, or Divine Blue
  • Quinacridone Rose, Alizarin Crimson, or Quinacridone Rose
  • Hansa Yellow Light or Lemon Yellow


• Raw Umber or Burnt Sienna

Each color has been tinted with a trace of white to demonstrate how it appears colored. Additionally, this provides a more precise indication of the temperature being ‘warm’ or ‘cold.’ If in doubt, the top row has warm colours.

Additionally, I utilized water to wash the left border of each color to highlight the hue’s adaptability when used in a watercolour method.

From these restricted possibilities, you may create hundreds (thousands!) of hue, tint, and tone variants. Here are more than a dozen that resulted from a few minutes of scribbling using a blue, red, and white pen. 

As you can see, even with just three components alone, the possibilities for color biases ranging from red to blue, tinted with white, and overall tonal intensity are almost infinite.

Which career path is better, that of an artist or that of a student?

Unlike with watercolors, where the line between student and professional quality is still rather evident, the distinction with acrylics is a little hazier, with less focus on’ student’ and ‘professional’ nomenclature and a little more on the viscosity (thickness) of the paint.

Numerous prominent acrylic paint producers price their more fluid acrylic paint at the less expensive, ‘student’ end of the scale, offering a flat rate for all colors. Naturally, the thicker, more pigmented, and often more costly ranges are more expensive, and individual colors vary in price depending on the pigment used.

I’d begin with a higher-grade fluid. These acrylics, such as those found in Winsor & Newton’s Galeria collection, are remarkable.

Are You Contemplating the Use of Acrylic paint with a Heavy Body?

Acrylics with a thick body offer a rich, creamy texture that resembles vintage oil paintings. You may build up the thickness of the ‘impasto’ layers with obvious brush strokes or manipulate the paint with a palette or painting knife to get an almost three-dimensional look.

Consider the heavy-bodied acrylics’ buttery or cream-cheese-like feel as a primary reference for viscosity (how thick or watery the paint is).

When squeezed from the tube, the more fluid versions resemble toothpaste or maybe mustard – they retain their structure but spread more freely and uniformly when applied with a brush.

I’ve gathered three separate variants of titanium white paint in the picture below. On the left is a ‘value’ kind from a set available from a number of bargain shops for a few pounds or dollars. As you can see, it’s rather watery.

It is ideal for tiny areas and evenly and smoothly spreading acrylic paint without leaving brush traces, as well as watercolour methods.

The center sample is from Winsor & Newton’s Galeria line and, although it demonstrates the previously described more fluid quality, it is much thicker than the left-hand sample (albeit the pigment in that is not watered down). This will cover a huge area and is excellent for most paintings as well as larger projects such as murals where superior coverage at an affordable price is critical. You can read about Art and Entertainment in the 1930s and 1940s by visiting